Abacos Oct 17 - 19 Allan's/Powell/Manjack

Thursday, October 17 Allan's Cay to Powell Cay (14 NM)

Even paradise has its problems. Mysteriously awakened at 5 a.m. by a gently rocking boat, it had been absolutely motionless the last 2 nights. It wasn't that though, it was the incessant tiny bites that had roused me - we had been invaded by no see ums (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceratopogonidaeh).  

I don't recall that ever happening and I was not pleased. Thinking perhaps the small smelly garbage bag we had left on deck had attracted them I tossed it into the dinghy, took a second to snap a pic of the brilliant almost full moon, and to deter the critters inside I (first time in decades) actually used bug spray. 

Captain has decided to let first mate choose next destination and she's chosen Powell Cay, only 3 hours away, uninhabited, pristine beaches, good shelling and a wreck. What more could you want? 

Bird kept flying around us.

Hauled anchor at 9:30, motoring under a big dark cloud, hoping it would rain and wash the salt off the boat. Was not to be it just spit on us for 20 minutes and moved on. We put out the jib, eventually turned off engine and heard nothing but the splashing of the dinghy behind us, a water fowl keeping pace.

Usual beat the sun attire and Otto steering.

Unusual attire and me steering.

Perfection and peace! Until 10:45 'snap' Otto's belt had broken and we had no spare and our course took us pretty much into the wind. I took the helm for an hour trying to steer without the sail luffing while Gerry attempted to repair the belt. After an hour he managed to stitch and tape it together. We took off the steering wheel and did a 360 or two ( without an audience), wrestled the belt and steering wheel back on and we were good to go. We'll see how long it lasts.

Our arrival was only delayed 45 minutes, not bad, and here we are anchored near the wreck. Maybe this is the third incident and we're done.

Explored the wreck, was a bit disappointing. Guess we were expecting a ship not a dredger.




We went to the beach to swim and find treasurers. Saw 2 starfish, no fish of any kind.

starfish

This is what the islands are made of.

Reminds me of the beaches of Grand Bahama.








Gerry fixed the anchor windlass while I shot the moon and made dinner.

Check out all the salt on the deck.

Gerry was in bed by 8:00, I managed to stay up one hour longer. Beaching and sailing must be hard work, but then we have been up since 5.

SPOT

Friday, October 18    Powell Cay to Manjack Cay (10 NM)

After breakfast we explored the other side of Powell by dinghy. The south side was supposed to be good shelling but it wasn't at all and was almost impossible to get on the beach because of the dead Australian pines.

We carried on to the other side and walked the beach finding just garbage and no shells. I decided to keep the fishing net buoy. Gerry didn't object as it was a lot smaller and lighter than the bench. 

Other side, house on island to the left.

check out how deep our footprints are

Cormorants

There must be lots of fish somewhere around here because at least 4 pelicans and 30 cormorants live here. Saw 2 more starfish and a wrecked paddle boat (in the bush).  Not sure how a paddle boat would get there.

On the way back we checked out the beach directly off our anchorage  and found a trail that took us back over to the far side of the island in about 3 minutes.  A lot less time than by dinghy.

Trail head and markers left by other travellers

Left Powell close to noon, motor sailed with jib doing between 4 to 5.2 knots, arrived at Manjack Cay at 1:30, dropped the hook in 6.5 feet (low tide) - Ramblynn's draft is 5.5. We're closer to civilization there's a house on this cay and we've anchored as far away as possible. 

 This afternoon I tidied up while Gerry took apart the starboard primary winch to clean and grease it, but will need to be addressed again because he couldn't get 2 pins out to do a complete job. He did the port halyard winch just before we left and yesterday the anchor windlass so that just leaves two winches, and those jobs aren't even on the main (at least 15 items) To Do list, which includes things like re-insulating the ice box, installing dorado vent, new water tank plugs, shrouds, and life lines. It never ends. 

Mid afternoon a couple, John and Sandi from Florida stopped by. They had a 61' Hattaras motor yacht over in the next bay. They asked if we needed ice as they had 2 ice makers making so much ice they have to throw some of it overboard. They told us the cove to the left has a friendly shark and stingray but they weren't there today. Coincidentally that's where we had planned on going. 

It's a double beach until high tide and one side is warmer than the other so that's where I snorkelled, no sign of shark or ray. I had just passed a bunch of bottom hugging seagrass on my way out of the water when it appeared to be moving towards me! Scared the hell out of me until I realized it was the stingray and not some monster out of the deep. It came directly at me as I was backing out of the water and ran into my leg. It swam around and into us letting us touch it. It felt like velvety rubber.

Close up of eye and gill

I'm glad it wasn't the shark that showed up although rationally I know Bahamian sharks don't attack they just look so darn scary I don't like to get up close and personal. While playing with the ray I noticed a little yellow bird fly into the water. Thought it was taking a bath but then it stopped moving. I rushed over, scooped him up and put him on the beach. He looked rather dead and Gerry didn't want to give him mouth to mouth. I checked on him a few minutes later and he was gone! 

There's a cute little house on this cove that's for sale ($380,000 - Canadian owns it) and while Gerry was walking back from it he foolishly walked off the sand into the greenery without shoes and managed to get the bottom of both feet half covered with burrs. Ouch! 

Close up of the burrs, nasty things

Beware circular greenery

Not an unusual site - docks rarely used or abandoned.

Gorgeous sunset

SPOT

Saturday, October 19    Manjack Cay 

 On our way to Great Guana Cay we swung past Sandi and John to say bye. They invited us to drop anchor next to them and go to the nearby full moon beach party so we said sure! 

Anchored by the Hattaras, beach party on the beach to the left.

Outside grocery store

Buying phone minutes

Went for a quick dip then to lunch with them (in their dinghy) to Green Turtle Cay. Last time Gerry was here (years ago) the bank was open once a week for a few hours. Things must be picking up, it's now open twice a week.

Green Turtle Cay

Nice low key full moon party hosted by Bill and Leslie who live on the island (22 years) and actually have a sign welcoming trespassers and pointing out the path to the ocean side of the island. Party was attended by any cruisers anchored in the bay and locals. Met a few interesting people, mostly rich. One couple Jane and Bob live on a catamaran and they survey and help make charts such as we have on our Ipad which make course plotting so very easy. Bob, and others, were impressed that we came up through Spence Rock as very few boats go through there. Bill tried to get rid of the no see ums but wasn't all that successful, they were merciless on land, fortunately none on the boat.

Bob, Jane and dogs