Glutton for Punishment (oops, mean fun) - Sailing again

Sunset

November 17 - 23, 2010

Wednesday – left Port Lucaya at 11 pm bound for More's Island with Les and Chris. The time was chosen so when we got there it would be daylight and easier to see obstacles and find a good anchorage. Since I was so miserable sailing overnight to and from Florida I volunteered to do all the cooking if I didn't have to take a night watch. Not sure if that was a good idea since I didn't really get a good nights sleep anyway. Winds were nonexistent and we foolishly wished we had some wind for the sails. Little did we know that we would get more than we wanted or needed in the days to come.

Thursday - Arrived at Mores (or Moores) Island around 11 am and had trouble finding suitable anchorage at Hard Bargain so we had to move into the “bight” where we finally dropped the anchor and it held. We were all too tired to go ashore and thought tomorrow would be better for exploring the island.

Friday - Remember when I said we wished we had more wind? The next morning the wind had picked up so much we didn't want to launch the dinghy! Our fear was that if the outboard failed we couldn't row against the wind and would end up in Florida. We spent the day lounging around, being entertained by another sailboat trying to anchor where we had failed – he tried and tried all afternoon – he sure was determined but eventually gave up and tied up at the dock.

buying conch & fish

Pounding the conch

Breading conch

There's nothing better than freshly caught seafood and late that afternoon we really lucked out – fishermen stopped near our boat to clean their conch and we waved them over to buy some. Not only did we get conch (triple what we asked for) but we got a free lobster and a huge hog snapper – all for $10!!! I now cannot eat store bought fish – t'was the best fish I have ever had. As for the conch – will be a while before I eat it again. Gerry and I made "cracked conch” (he pounded it and I breaded and fried it -pan after pan after pan full) – conch for dinner, conch for breakfast, conch for lunch, conch for breakfast and the even the fish got some. The pile of breaded conch grew to 4 times the size you see here.

Moon set

Saturday – Wanted to get to Sandy Point so didn't bother going on to More's Island at all. Hauled anchor, raised the sails and off we went, anticipating a quiet day of sailing due to the light winds. Wrong! Started out that way but soon the wind was over 25 knots and the waves were up to 6 feet. Brought back fond memories of crossing to Florida – NOT! Eventually had to reef the main and then finally brought in the jib. Another wild ride – Les loved it – Chris and I not so much. Arrived safe and sound at 12:30 just as Gerry had predicted – why is he always right? Took the dinghy (made for 2, not 4) and putt putted to shore, had a drink at a beach bar but we were all so tired we cut the trip short and even though it was Saturday night we didn't go back to town. This sailing business is mighty tiring.

Sandy Point from the boat

Ramblynn from the Sandy Point bar

Sunday – Back to Sandy Point for a walking tour but Les and I didn't last more than 10 minutes (still suffering with the broken toe) and went back to the boat. I needed a shower but there's a limited amount of fresh water on the boat so you have to bathe in the ocean and then rinse off with fresh water. Good thing the ocean is still warm at this time of year. In the meantime Chris and Gerry saw manta rays and got a guided tour of a new resort being built, bellied up to the bar again and hobnobbed with the locals.

Ferry 

Rays

Apparently we were anchored near the channel the ferry uses (not marked) and when it came in it crossed 150 feet in front of us. We thought that was pretty close but when it left it crossed 30 feet behind us!!!

Dinghy with Ramblynn in background

Helicopter

Monday – Hauled anchor and headed for the private Disney Island – perfect sailing weather, lots of wind, got there in record time. The Island is actually named Gorda Cay but Disney bought it and renamed it Castaway Cay. They built a huge dock, moved coral around to make a breakwall and litterered the island with chairs, umbrellas, bike paths, cabanas, etc etc. The cruise ship wasn't in so we chanced a trip to shore, set up our blankets and 3 of us wandered down the beach. On our way back we saw off in the distance a man purposely walking towards Les. Gerry (of course) wasn't properly attired and ducked behind me to pull a shirt on – was very amusing. The man was very polite and very hot – don't mean he was perspiring! He was a total hunk with a damn cute accent, Chris and I couldn't take our eyes off him. Anyway, we packed up and got back in the dinghy – security was tight and a 4-wheeler was approaching from land and a boat was approaching from the water – guess we looked like a real threat. Got back on the boat and all of a sudden there was a helicoptor coming at us and then a big cutter cruised by – not Disney security as it turned out - US coast guard on patrol but we were quite excited for a few minutes thinking we were important enough to pull out the big guns. The hunk had strongly hinted that we move out of the bay entirely but we decided that even though we weren't welcome we were staying. They kept an eye on us for awhile but didn't come near us. Gerry took these photos during his bath.

Keel

Anchor

Tuesday – hauled anchor at 7 am and headed for home. Winds were supposed to come from the east and they did for awhile – more wind than we needed and when it turned and came out of the west the ride became particularly uncomfortable, throw in a little rain and waves coming from 3 directions (yes 3) and the trip wasn't so much fun. After a few hours of this Chris and I had had enough and we used our goddess powers and called on the universe to make the wind quit – and quit it did, making the last few hours quite comfortable. Gerry and Les of course are nonbelievers and just scoffed at the whole thing. Good thing we only use our powers for good not evil – so far.

November 4 (crossing hell) - 14, and November 15 too

It's been 10 days now and I'm over the trauma of the return trip and ready to sail again. I thought going over was rough, coming back was even worse. I had drugs, supposedly good ones and I took twice as many as recommended but I still didn't feel the best – no throwing up but was very uncomfortable most of the way back to Grand Bahama. We left the safety of Fort Lauderdale Harbour around 6 p.m. the 4th of November with a jury rigged bow light and lots of freighter traffic and of course lots of wind and waves. The guy who checked us out at the immigration office suggested we don't go – it was rough out there – he wasn't kidding. But once again, we had a deadline (people were coming to look at Dulcinea) and the forecast for the rest of the week was even worse so we carried on – under full sail. As soon as I realized what we were in for I said if we're not turning around I'm going below – see you later – maybe. The only place safe to sleep was on the floor wedged between the drop leaf table and the couch – a tight fit wearing a life jacket but surprisingly comfortable. Eventually I did emerge only to see that the boat was heeled over as far as we used to sail the Siren – I immediately went below! Some crew eh? Gerry once suggested I take my turn at watch and I promptly replied that that wasn't going to happen until things got quieter – there was no way I was staying in that cockpit alone, in the dark.

Gerry had done the "stuffing box" thing before we left but reminded me to pump the bilge regularly. I did it once and it only ran for a few seconds so I knew we were not taking water in around the prop so I sort of left the rest of the pumping to him. Unfortunately, unbeknowst to us Richard had broken the cockpit scupper in the rear compartment when he lowered a drill press into it and with all the wave action we were taking in water but since the boat was heeled over I didn't notice it. I was laying right on top of the bilge and thought for sure that if we were taking on water I would get wet. And wet I did get but not till Gerry came below and noticed vast amounts of water on the port side and our shoes were swimming in it, not to mention a few other things. I was gently reprimanded that I should have been switching on the bilge pump but how would that have helped? It wouldn't have done any good since all the water was on one side of the boat nowhere near the bilge (he didn't and still doesn't see it that way – it's still under discussion)! Gerry rectified that by letting the boat straighten out and sure enough the water ran into the bilge and all over the rest of the boat soaking everything that was on the floor, including me.

By 3 a.m. Gerry needed some rest so he hauled in the jib and things quieted down enough for me to take a watch. I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me when every once in a while I saw a huge black object pass close by. I eventually realized it was a wave – really really really big wave! Didn't much care for that.

As you can see we survived and spent the next week cleaning (Dulcinea for the prospective buyers), and Ramblynn (because she was once again filthy with seawater). Had loads of laundry because once again we took in water through the forward hatch (soaking clothes and linens) despite the dinghy covering it, loads of tape around it and a big tarp under it, over the bed. And just in case I was getting bored I got to scrape and paint the bottom of the McGregor and today I painted the bottom of the new dinghy. And just to add to all the fun I bashed my foot into the jib sheet block and there's a good chance I broke my toe.

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November 15 - Low key, great birthday spent with friends.  Andreas baked a lovely lemon cake and Kerstin decorated it; Betty baked brownies - and of course both were delicious - thank you!